How To Repair Quonset Hut Rafters

pollinator

Posts: 1912

Location: RRV of da Nort

posted 6 years ago

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We have a 40 10 80 ft quonset from the 1960s (?) that still provides shelter for animals, simply is beginning to sag in the centre. There was a long laminated axle that provided support but has slowly severed over time. Does anyone have any advice or internet resources regarding how to jack up the centre and so that the axle can be re-ligated? Any other suggestions on the type of contractor who might tackle such a project? Thank you!

PS....edited the title to refer to entries started on iii/9/2019.

"The most important decision we make is whether we believe we live in a friendly or hostile universe."― Albert Einstein

Posts: 86

Location: Northeast - 5B

posted vi years agone

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Hi John

Pictures of the construction, its framing and the expanse in question would be great. If I was a contractor in your surface area and you lot called me the start matter I would desire to do is see it.

and so if you submit pictures here you may find that someone is in your area and may be able to help you with a contact of someone or they may exist able to exercise it themselves.

I'm a noob to permies and forums in general and i have posted questions on diverse topics. I usually find that I have not provided enough info to give people an opportunity to assist on my first post.

hopes this helps you get the help you need. Greg

"Rather than a problem to be solved, the world is a joyful mystery to be contemplated with gladness and praise." Pope Francis

John Weiland

pollinator

Posts: 1912

Location: RRV of da Nort

posted 5 years ago

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Finally getting around to posting photos of Exhibit A. The trouble projection here is a 40 X 80 quonset that is sagging in the middle. The internal photograph is of a separating wall that was installed to keep the front end half of the building insulated and warmer than the back half. A large canvass tarp once hung downwardly to serve every bit the divider. The beam that looks split is really a few overlapping 2X6s....I can't imagine they were really placed in that location for structural integrity of the roof, probably just serving every bit a header for the door frame.
Would honey to have the middle rib of the building jacked up past directly, and then that the roof would bow upwards a bit in the eye instead of downward. The only thing I could envision was some high strength cabling spanning from one side to the other and anchored into a few of the ribs somehow, but worry about the stress on those timbers.
Any thoughts? Thanks.

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gardener

Posts: 3697

Location: Upstate NY, zone 5

posted v years ago

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Short of a row of posts running downwards the heart of the quonset supporting the ridge, I think the just practical reinforcement would be cables, and at that place would need to exist a cablevision at each rib pair then every bit to go along the stresses evenly distributed. I think the cables, if they went straight across, would want to be around the level of the elevation of the rollup door in the stop wall. Unfortunately, that would be rather in the way of a lot of normal uses of the space. You might be able to make cable trusses with struts reaching downward from the ridge, looking a lot like a series of drawn bows with arrows, with the cablevision attachments about the level of the bottom of the upper windows or meridian of the lower windows.

The cable ends would have to accomplish around each rib to touch on the outer surface below the roof sheathing, so as non to weaken the ribs by drilling holes or putting delamination stresses on them.

Anything like this would need calculations past a PE or other professional to size and locate elements and connections correctly.

John Weiland

pollinator

Posts: 1912

Location: RRV of da Nort

posted v years ago

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Urrggghh....thanks for the assay, Glenn. I was afraid information technology was not going to exist an easy fix. There used to be some barn straightening crews effectually locally at one time,......I may accept to consult them to see if this is a job they may be able to handle. Thanks for the comments.

"The about important decision nosotros brand is whether nosotros believe we live in a friendly or hostile universe."― Albert Einstein

Glenn Herbert

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Posts: 3697

Location: Upstate NY, zone 5

posted v years agone

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One other possibility may be to add together diagonal posts every bit braces from the bottoms of the ribs to a point around halfway up. This would cut into the edges of the space some, but not obstruct the top/center at all, and probably exist less catchy to practise. You would demand to start bring the profile into line and so you lot could attach the posts.

Posts: 63

Location: high desert and mountains of Idaho and coastal Atlantic Canada (migratory)

posted 5 years ago

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John Weiland wrote:Finally getting effectually to posting photos of Exhibit A. The problem projection hither is a xl X eighty quonset that is sagging in the middle. The internal photograph is of a separating wall that was installed to keep the front half of the building insulated and warmer than the back half. A large canvass tarp one time hung down to serve as the divider. The beam that looks split is really a few overlapping 2X6s....I can't imagine they were really placed there for structural integrity of the roof, probably merely serving as a header for the door frame.
Would love to have the middle rib of the building jacked upward past straight, so that the roof would bow upward a scrap in the centre instead of downward. The but thing I could envision was some high strength cabling spanning from i side to the other and anchored into a few of the ribs somehow, but worry virtually the stress on those timbers.
Any thoughts? Thanks.

Assuming that the ribs aren't rotted and kicking out at the bottom - is the wall straight at ground level?

Every rib needs the cable. Use fencing wire like This: 170 ft for $25 or $12.50 per rib. If you're feeling paranoid and think y'all need a PE so double it, or 4 strands per rib.

Use a come-a-long to pull two stands around each rib and secure somehow to continue the cables from wanting to slide up the rib. put a short slice of one/2 conduit betwixt the ii wires every 6-8 ft and twist with a bar in alternating directions. pull it in a fiddling at a time past tightening all the cables. Put a stiff come-a-long aslope each cable every bit yous twist it. The come-along does the pulling and the cable just holds information technology when yous remove the come-along to the next rib. Jacking the ridge while tightening helps relieve the stress on the cables. It volition move very slowly. If the distance to pull in is more than than 3 inches per twist betoken 40 dissever by 6ft would be about 6 points or 18 inches total pull. Measure this off the un-saged end wall If information technology is longer than that so you'll need to contain a turnbuckle like piece fabricated from all-thread.

I have done a couple one-time barns with this swayback syndrome. none 40 x 80. 30 x sixty I have done and pulled it in near 8 inches.

warning: for some reason birds just love those wires much more than any boards or timber members. I of my customers didn't like aspect simply didn't bitch much considering we saved him tens of thousands of dollars. He hung canvas on the wires to thrart the birds. All beyond the nation old barns are slowly falling to the basis and anybody of them could be saved with some wire ... the magic tensile material the ancients never had.

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Tom Turner

Posts: 63

Location: high desert and mountains of Idaho and coastal Atlantic Canada (migratory)

posted 5 years ago

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Glenn Herbert wrote:Short of a row of posts running down the center of the quonset supporting the ridge, I think the only practical reinforcement would be cables, and there would need to be a cable at each rib pair so as to proceed the stresses evenly distributed. I call back the cables, if they went straight beyond, would want to be around the level of the meridian of the rollup door in the end wall. Unfortunately, that would exist rather in the style of a lot of normal uses of the space. You might exist able to make cable trusses with struts reaching downward from the ridge, looking a lot like a serial of drawn bows with arrows, with the cable attachments near the level of the bottom of the upper windows or pinnacle of the lower windows.

The cablevision ends would have to reach around each rib to bear on the outer surface beneath the roof capsule, so equally non to weaken the ribs by drilling holes or putting delamination stresses on them.

Anything like this would need calculations past a PE or other professional to size and locate elements and connections correctly.

Y'all know why this vault failed? It is the incorrect shape. It is a Roman curvation of true radius. It wasn't tall plenty at the center. Roman arches stood because they were very thick, thich enough to be constructed as a radius yet still contain with-in them the "touching pieces of an curvation." If it were a ambit the ribs of this vault ("Quonset") would have been under purely compressive force. Considering they missed the correct catenary curve those ribs were nether tensile forces and acted like a traditional truss. The catenary allows a building material, say like wheat straw, to be entirely under purely compressive forces.

In the late 17th century, the discovery for creating the strongest course of arch was realized. Robert Hooke had stated he found "the true mathematical and mechanical form of all manner of arches for building." Initially encoded by means similar to that of an anagram (abcccddeeeeefggiiiiiiii-ilmmmmnnnnnooprrsssttttttuuuuuuuux), Hooke'south studies would later on exist revealed and practical. His cord of letters, when re-arranged, held the details; "Every bit hangs a flexible cablevision, so inverted, stand up the touching pieces of an arch" (Ut pendet continuum flexile, sic stabit contiguum rigidum inversum).

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John Weiland

pollinator

Posts: 1912

Location: RRV of da Nort

posted 5 years ago

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Thanks for these additional and encouraging comments, Tom. I take a few questions with regard to your described cable-based solution for re-straightening our quonset roof, but want to summarize the possible scenarios and add some boosted information get-go.

One scenario here is to do nothing. If we do that, the roof will likely sag further, increasing the problem of the roof leaking which is what brought me to ask near a solution in the first place. I bring up the leak considering, fifty-fifty though I'm not seeing any obvious rot on account of water under the roof panels, that is non to say that rot does not exist. Nevertheless, all beams seem in reasonably adept shape and none of the beams/ribs has disconnected from the wood base-plate, itself anchored to a cement skirt that defines the quonset foundation.

So a 2nd scenario is to place a pole on the ground, which would necessarily need a footer of some type so as not to sink into the footing on business relationship of the roof pressure, and have that pole holding up the roof later on the roof has been jacked up and relieved dorsum downwardly onto the pole. This leaves a pole in the middle of the building which is acceptable to u.s. and, assuming it would do the chore, may be the least expensive and time-involved fix of all.

A third scenario is to apply cantankerous-beams originating from the base-plate near a rib and extending past the middle-roof to a betoken contrary from that origin and affixed in some way to the rib after jacking of the roof. Upon settling of the roof dorsum down, the cross beams would back up the extra load. A tertiary scenario like to this which I was pondering was similar to the cantankerous-beam approach, but instead has the beam originating from the base of operations-plate and terminating at the primal roof strut. The idea here would be to have a 'mirror', direct contrary, beam from the other side of the quonset meeting at the same point, but on the other side, of the central roof strut. Upon relieving support from the roof jacking, downward force per unit area from the roof would (might?) crusade the new beams to "pinch" the central roof strut as they would both be inclined to movement inward on business relationship of the downward pressure. If this, or Glenn's option, were feasible, I'm wondering how many beams would exist needed to attain our goal.

Finally, in that location is the cable option and I've added a few more photos for the discussion. First, the ribs are actually iii laminated pieces of what looks like 1 X 6" or 1 X 8" lumber resulting in each rib being ~ vii" deep. This will pertain to what manner of attaching cables or back up beams should be used that will not destroy the integrity of the rib. It would be easy enough to drill a pigsty through the beam side by side to the wall so that cabling could run through the pigsty for attachment, merely is this a sound idea?

Some additional information to add to the state of affairs. As noted in some other thread, we are located in a flood plain, the lines of which have been re-fatigued due to the increased flooding over the by 20 years. The buildings, including the quonset, are essentially in a "no-build zone" due to these changes. It is quite likely that , if not moved to a new location, the building(s) will be demolished when nosotros are done living here, probably in ~thirty years or less. Outside of a few animals housed in the building, information technology sees no other traffic except my married woman and I....visitors of any kind are few and far between. I add this to go far clear that we do non demand to provide a fix for the adjacent user, even though one plain can't predict the future.

The cabling sounds like an interesting solution, but pretty extensive: I would certainly exist using it if I were restoring an old befouled that I would like to see survive as long equally possible. I'thou simply not sure if this is what we want to exercise hither, but worth exploring all the same. ......Could you please clarify how the come up-along is used in the procedure y'all described? Do you have any photos of this procedure or tin they be found on the internet? What pound-rating of come up-along would be necessary for such a chore? Every bit information technology appears to be but the quonset's dorsum-half of the roof that is sagging, would all of the ribs need cabling in that back half or merely those under the dip in the roof? What placement on the rib would exist optimal for optimum back up once the jacks are relieved supporting the roof? What is the jack configuration for such a project?....a hydralic jack with a large pole or something industrial that is attached to a drive-in rig and is specialized for such a purpose?

I realize that this is akin to '20 questions', but could save usa a lot of time and energy in the long run as I'm sure you are aware. Even in the short term, would hate to see increased water exposure from the leaking roof that may erode the roof integrity faster than it needs to. Again, much cheers for the comments and skillful suggestions.

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Glenn Herbert

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Location: Upstate NY, zone 5

posted 5 years ago

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I agree the arch shape is the crusade of the stresses that are deforming it. From the interior motion-picture show, it wasn't quite a semicircular "Roman" arch, more a very minor Gothic pointed curvation, simply not nearly pointed enough to approximate a true ambit arch.

I see that 1 terminate is incomparably more than sagging than the other; is the less deformed end where the dividing wall is? That would indicate that information technology might non accept all that much structure to stabilize the roof.

With the goal defined as "stable for our lifetime" rather than "stable forever", and the stipulation that a few centre posts may be adequate, I think some form of that would exist the way to go. I would utilize roundwood posts harvested from your land if you have plenty, peeled and cut to appropriate lengths. Given the smallish nature of private existing members, I think hardwood trees of perchance half-dozen-8" dbh depending on actual center height would do the job, at something between 6' and 12' spacing. The simplest method would exist to reinforce the ridgepole so it can distribute loads better to adjacent rib pairs, then cut the posts to correct length matching the end tiptop, fix them into place at the tops, and have the bases resting on a continuous plank and so they can start at an angle and have their bases sledgehammered bit past bit to cease upwards beneath their tops. Y'all might demand double the final number of posts to be able to reduce the compressive friction on each post to where it is practical to hammer them. Maybe plan it so each post point is a double, with the starting configuration an inverted "Five", ending as a tight pair of posts. I call back it is likely that you lot might demand to still plan on something like post pairs every 5', removing alternate sets after the final jacking is achieved. The posts will *hold* a lot more than y'all are likely to be able to *enhance*. Any surplus posts would go firewood. You would cut out the plank sections between posts after raising, so there would be just plank baseplates for each post.

The "cross-beams" approach would be more complex than necessary, and not better than the angled posts going from wall base to center ridge next proposed. Those angled posts would piece of work excellently without impinging significantly on flooring space. Their only drawback compared to the vertical center posts would be that a jack or several would exist required to raise the roof before installing the posts; they could non be used by themselves as wedges to raise the roof, unless all partitions were removed from the befouled.

Tom Turner

Posts: 63

Location: high desert and mountains of Idaho and littoral Atlantic Canada (migratory)

posted 5 years ago

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The reason metal roofs pop their screws is because of the difference in thermal expansion between the steel vs. the wooden underlying structure. As the sheets expand and contract during daily, and seasonal temperature changes they alternately push and pull on the screw, kind of like a equus caballus pushing on a fence post. The screw rotates nether this move.

It is the same effect every bit in both vinyl and aluminum siding. In both of those products the manufacturer uses slotted nail-holes and in application the nails are non to be driven home which allow the siding to expand and contract.

Plastic has a very high thermal expansion. Aluminum has less but twice every bit much every bit steel. To get a perspective assume wood is cypher, steel is 1, aluminum is two and vinyl is 4. Steel is minimal compared to plastic and in most applications where the sheets of steel are short in that location is enough flex in the structure to not cause any issues. The longer the sheets of steel, the more the expansion differences accumulate and it so becomes a problem. I find it unbelievable that steel suppliers would sell 30-40 foot long sheets of roofing without alert the customer of this problem.

There are some manufacturers who have attachment systems that allow sliding motility, but they are super expensive. The unproblematic solution is to install expansion joints - two or more than small-scale over-lapping sheets versus 1 long one.

Using former-school nails through the high ridge allowed some flex to occur. Screws in the valley just exacerbate the problem because it reduces the ability of the screw or the sheet to flex. Calculation twice as many screws as recommended exacerbates the problem even further by reducing even further the ability of the canvas to flex. Heavy gage sheets vs. light gage sheets besides make the problem worse.

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Tom Turner

Posts: 63

Location: high desert and mountains of Idaho and coastal Atlantic Canada (migratory)

posted five years agone

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The best way to sympathise this is to envision a truss. There are the two roof pieces that form the chevron-shaped roof, and the horizontal piece which forms the ceiling. The top two are under compression. As they are loaded by the roof the push confronting each other at the ridge and straight the strength at the top of the walls. Without the horizontal slice the walls would bow out. The top two are under compression and the horizontal is under tension. The horizontal piece can exist replaced with cable or chain, and sometimes is to give an open cathedral ceiling.

The Professional Engineers who designed the vault assumed that their arch shape would allow dispensing with the horizontal tensile element. They were wrong. The edifice still needs a horizontal tensile chemical element. The cease walls are not saging because the wall is the horizontal tensile element.

Consider the sag of the ribs to equate to the walls bowing, or leaning out. Jacking the ridge axle will non pull the walls dorsum in plumb. It will only split up the ridge articulation. You have to pull the walls in somehow so retrofit the horizontal tensile element that the designers wrongly eliminated. Cables do both things, kills ii birds with one inexpensive stone. You lot're just going to get an arm workout and your easily will be sore past the time you lot pull that old human of a befouled back upright.

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Glenn Herbert

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Posts: 3697

Location: Upstate NY, zone 5

posted 5 years ago

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It'southward true that if the ribs have taken a set in the bowed position, they volition resist straightening, and tend to pull apart at the ridge if the ridge is jacked upwards. If they have not set, or if they will regain their original shape with a slow jacking (over a menses of weeks mayhap), then they will no longer need a cable element to keep them from bowing, equally the force causing the bowing will accept been eliminated.

The roof at the terminate walls is not sagging because the walls are giving vertical support to the ridge, and at that place is no horizontal forcefulness that needs to be resisted.

To counteract the separating tendency, I would suggest tying the rib pairs together with tension boards just beneath the ridge. This is not a perfect solution, but should be skilful enough. The platonic tie location would be at the meridian of the ridge, which might be doable by drilling through the ridge and attaching lengths of threaded rod or bolts with steel brackets bolted to the sides of the ribs near the top.

If y'all did employ some cables, they would work together with the jacking posts to reduce the stress on each chemical element. Y'all might want to beginning with the easiest method, and plan to add together some of the other types of movement inducers if the effort becomes too difficult.

John Weiland

pollinator

Posts: 1912

Location: RRV of da Nort

posted v years ago

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@Glenn H.: "....is the less deformed end where the dividing wall is? That would signal that it might not take all that much construction to stabilize the roof. "

The dividing wall is right smack in the middle of the structure. And then the sagging point is correct nigh dead center of the north one-half of the building.
Based on your comments and those of Tom T., I'grand considering a hybrid fix....using cableing and come-alongs to provide tension, perchance a jack confronting the center rib to provide lift, and then using a cutting telephone pole to provide final back up.....we don't take the correct trees in the area of the height needed to be able to choose one from our land for that purpose. In the end, the cables can be tightened to assistance in the back up every bit well.

So ii last questions that I'thou curious well-nigh: (i) Could C-clamps provide sufficient 'hold' to go on the ridge from splitting apart during jacking if the sidewalls have in fact become rigidified in their current (sagged) course? And (two) given the photograph of one of the ribs above, how best to fix a cable around that rib without having to go through the roof to provide sufficient anchor to the cablevision with minimal hazard of breaking through the rib?

It's funny, now when I'm driving the countryside, I'thou noticing all the quonsets,.....and which ones accept correct mount of "point" versus "curve". Again, thanks for great ideas and comments.

"The most important decision we make is whether we believe we alive in a friendly or hostile universe."― Albert Einstein

Glenn Herbert

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Location: Upstate NY, zone 5

posted 5 years agone

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The separation upshot would not be the ridge itself splitting, it would exist the ribs separating from the ridge at the joints. You could theoretically spike the ribs more securely to the ridge, but the best set up would be to fasten them to each other, eliminating the trend of fasteners to pull out of ridge attachments. The stress would be parallel to the rib side surfaces, so stout through bolts would work without depending on threads into wood.

If in that location is no space betwixt the ribs and the roof capsule, I would drill through the ribs an inch or two from the outer surface and put pins or bolts through, with attachment to the cable on each side so equally non to twist the ribs. This would definitely weaken the rib, so the cables would demand to exist permanent, taking the angle stress off the ribs at the bespeak of attachment. If y'all can slide a steel plate between the rib and sheathing, and so bend the plate so it can exist bolted to cablevision attachments, that may piece of work best of all... depends on how much force yous are going to put on each cable.

If y'all are but planning on one post to support the eye of a xl' length of sagging roof, I would strongly urge beefing upwardly the ridge kickoff. A 10' or and so timber, or a couple of timbers, one 12' and ane beneath it six',should spread the load reasonably well. (Call up "leaf spring".) Yous would need to brace these then they don't buckle sideways, of course.

John Weiland

pollinator

Posts: 1912

Location: RRV of da Nort

posted two years ago

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Wow.....2 years since the final entry.  Today saw a tragic end to the story,......though fortunately we've found no fatalities still (pretty much all accounted for at this betoken).  We dithered too long looking for a fix.  And today Mother Nature's patience wore out......she dealt the last blow.  Likewise much snowfall congenital up on the roof......with the predicted consequences.  The silver lining:  Time to get-go planning for a new, smaller, more robust building.

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"The nearly of import decision we make is whether nosotros believe nosotros live in a friendly or hostile universe."― Albert Einstein

steward

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Location: Northern WI (zone iv)

posted ii years ago

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Wow John, I'1000 deplorable to hear she fell down.  When I saw this thread popular up I thought either someone was wondering how information technology did or it was an obituary...

John Weiland

pollinator

Posts: 1912

Location: RRV of da Nort

posted 2 years agone

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Thank you, Mike.  A pretty big disaster all the way around.....but more than frustrating given the winter we've had.  And the accumulation that caused the collapse is only adding to flood worries.  Hoping for the mildest of leap seasons at this point....

"The almost important decision we make is whether we believe nosotros alive in a friendly or hostile universe."― Albert Einstein

John Weiland

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Posts: 1912

Location: RRV of da Nort

posted 2 years ago

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....and a fleck of the Phoenix rising from the ashes.  A few pics to commemorate a long and rather arduous summer, with more chores to get this fall.  The photos higher up say it all in terms of where we started from on March ninth, the twenty-four hours the quonset collapsed from snow load.  in the next few photos are the removal of the quonset, a new site prep, a new building, an addition to the building for hay, a new chicken building,.....and more hopefully to follow.   But astonishing that a crew of 2 guys and a Bobcat erected the new 30 X 40 building in three days!  The craven business firm roof is cut pieces from the quonset....we salvaged as much of the metal that we could and it's yet being used for other projects.

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"The nigh of import decision nosotros make is whether nosotros believe we live in a friendly or hostile universe."― Albert Einstein

John Weiland

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Posts: 1912

Location: RRV of da Nort

posted two years ago

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Oooops....forgot the addition to the main building for hay:

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Location: Victoria British Columbia-Canada

posted 2 years ago

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Did it come down difficult enough to ruin everything within, or were you lot able to save much of it?

John Weiland

pollinator

Posts: 1912

Location: RRV of da Nort

posted 2 years agone

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Dale Hodgins wrote:Did it come up down hard enough to ruin everything inside, or were you able to relieve much of it?

Hello Dale,

We did lose a lot of woods that we would have preferred keeping.  The way the walls complanate, information technology was fortunate that no i nor animal was hurt.  Nevertheless, with the weeks that followed the collapse, it became quite precarious to walk around within the building.  On windy days, sheets of metal would exist swinging back and along and pretty bad creaking could exist heard as the edifice wanted to settle.  And so we decided to salvage as much plywood as possible, one big feed bin, a few windows, and some random tools.  The rest disappeared in a unmarried day of demolition with nearly 10 truckloads profitable the demolition crew.  You can see the old quonset perimeter at the edge of the new craven house.  Also.....the cruddy-looking lean-to at the dorsum of the new craven firm was attached to the quonset.  That large True cat backhoe operator managed to remove the quonset without touching several smaller attached buildings that we are still using.....the one noted was placed onto skids and pulled with my tractor back to where it could be merged with the craven hut.  And then some salvaged plywood, metallic, and a few windows are resurrected in several of the new buildings going up.  Although the major new building was new construction, I built the attached hay barn and the chicken building using the old quonset metal as covering and occasionally a beam or two was some large piece pulled from the wreckage. Non shown are some twin-wall plexiglass greenhouse panels salvaged from a local hailstorm....they are cut to size to fit in the s-facing rough-in holes in the chicken firm and will provide much relief from the winter chill. Glad almost of it is at present done to satisfaction before the snowfall flies!

"The almost important decision we make is whether we believe we live in a friendly or hostile universe."― Albert Einstein

posted viii months ago

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I completely recognize that this is a five year one-time annotate, but I've been scouring what feels like the ENTIRE internet and I go along coming back to this thread. I'grand working on a similar problem right at present with a client's gothic arch, which has a slight sag in the middle, and the crusade of this is, obviously, completely open to all kinds of theoretical ideas created by the people I'k dealing with, mostly a stubborn architecture school dropout and his ground forces of formulas and terms that I feel like, are really mudding upward my ability to expect at the problems and develop a plan for a solution based on what'south THERE, what'due south Not, and how to determine the least intrusive way of supporting this (then far, fairly calorie-free) sagging at the eye ridge.
I'm wondering if, well of course if anyone reads this, if I could throw out the details of the roof situation I take in front end of me, and hopefully you all, with what I can tell is knowledge of and oodles of experience with these types of structures that I have AT HAND, may be able to help me ameliorate understand what'southward happening with this barn? Considering I do feel similar I have a pretty good grasp on it, but after two exhausting hours on the phone with Mr. architecture, I can't even put what I know into a cohesive sentence whatever longer. This truss analogy keeps popping back in my caput....

Thanks to anyone who reads or replies, deplorable if I wrote this in the wrong surface area, I've never really participated in a forum and I'grand sure I'm doing it all incorrect.

master pollinator

Posts: 3774

Location: Officially Zone 7b, according to personal obsevations I live in 7a, SW Tennessee

posted 8 months ago

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I don't have the expertise to help. However, I tin can tell yous that pictures will be benign to aid identify solutions.

Mike Haasl

steward

Posts: 12288

Location: Northern WI (zone 4)

posted eight months ago

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You bet, post some pics and someone will likely give you communication.  This thread isn't onetime, information technology's at the elevation of the folio

Source: https://permies.com/t/49023/ft-quonset-roof-sagging-middle

Posted by: irizarryriplat.blogspot.com

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